[PS4] Project Cars Community PS4

hier nog mensen die vanavond +- 2100 uur willen racen??

 

Top dat dit topic er is! Ben nog geen Pro maar doe graag mee. Helaas heb ik niet veel geluk met mijn gezondheid en kan ik vh 1 op het andere moment soms niet mee doen. Maar hoop natuurlijk lekker te kunnen racen. Roedy 82 is mijn PSN.

 

ik ben vanavond wel weer online,,.. zal je toevoegen!!

 

Hallo allen,

Helemaal nieuw hier. Sinds een week m'n t300 rs binnen samen met wheelstand pro. Race 3-4 avonden per week vanaf uur of 21.00 uur. Ben het een beetje zat om een goede kwalificatie na bocht 1 kwijt te zijn omdat er van die Noobs zijn die nergens voor remmen.
Wil graag serieus en eerlijk racen en van elkaar leren en elkaar helpen bij setups enz.

Voeg me maar toe PsN account: MarkieMan1983

Zie jullie snel online!

 

Hoe zit het bij Project Cars online? Ik merk bij Driveclub dat er toch wel veel gebeukt wordt en je krijgt er amper een penalty voor. Is dit bij Project Cars anders?

 

Bij PJC krijg je geen penalty voor botsen. Alleen als je buiten de baan raakt of afsnijd. Misschien dat over een tijdje de noobs er klaar mee zijn en de echte racers overblijven. Let's hope for the best!

 

Markie,.. Ik voeg je vanavond toe,.. je mag mij ook toevoegen,..
see you on track!!

 

Markie, zat je in private lobbyys ofzo??
ik kon niet joinen gisteravond,.....

 

Nee had gewoon een public server gejoined, hoorde ook van anderen dat ze me niet konden joinen.
Lekker vaag dus. Volgende keer beter.
Stuur maar gewoon invité hoor als het niet lukt om te joinen.

 

PATCH 2.0 is life voor de PS4... dus updaten maar..

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/showthread.php?34129-Project-CARS-PS4-Patch-2-0-Release-notes

 

Ik zal hem vanavond ff updaten, en gelijk ook weer ff wat km's maken. Tis eindelijk weer iets koeler om een avondje te kunnen gamen. Vanaf uur of 21.00 uur online.

 

Vanavond weer online. Aant racen vanaf 21.00 uur met een aantal members van MBG clan.

 

race nu zelf met aantal (volgens mij) engelsen, zitten paar fanatieke gastjes bij.
via gtplanet paar toffe lui in mijn lijst gezet, bijna iedereen in die lobby's probeert in elk geval clean te racen.

 

Nog iemand onlinepass het racen?
Voeg me maar toe michaelwerken

 

Jow Guys, ik ben al een tijdje opzoek naar een groep die clean wil racen.
Voeg mij aub toe.
PSN: RhinoNL

 

ben dit weekend naar nurburgring, en volgende week eerst ff metal gear 5 uitspelen, en dan ben ik weer volop aan het project caren
Zal je toevoegen, anders mag je mij ook vast toevoegen,... psn: allstyles

extra tip, check racestars.nl voor snelle nederlanders,.. ik speel meestal met groep engelsen, maar doe met hun een league!

 

Ik meld me bij deze ook bij de familie.

PSN naam: Goeiste

 

Voor de mensen die net zo fanatiek zijn met Project C.A.R.S. als ik, heb ik in excel een database geschreven met alle auto specificaties, auto afbeeldingen van alle auto's tot nu toe (da's inclusief de aston martin DLC), alle track afbeeldingen met de gegevens over die specifieke track, 6 type Force Feedback setting voor het stuurwiel en nog veel meer.
Het is een best groot bestand met alle afbeeldingen er in dus ik heb er ook een "database only" naast geschreven.
Heb je interesse in dit bestand dan kun je die hier direct downloaden, en voor de DB Only versie moet je dan hier klikken.
Elke kolom met gegevens in de database zijn te sorteren. Ik heb er ook een paar calculaties in/op los gelaten zodat je ook de "power to weight ratio" kunt zien.

Hier zijn wat links met een voorproefje hoe het er een beetje uitziet.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByTrIIX1hVzRaXRMZWhEdEZrdkk
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByTrIIX1hVzRQWltZFhKSWQtQUE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByTrIIX1hVzRajRKdWd5OFRfSFE
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByTrIIX1hVzRWjdkOWFZSUx4U1k

De laatste DLC bevat:
4 cars
Aston Martin Racing DBR1-2
Aston Martin Racing DBR1/300
Aston Martin Racing V8 Vantage GTE
Mercedes-Benz 300SL (W194)

6 tracks
Mojave Test Track
Mojave Boa Ascent
Mojave Sidewinder
Mojave Coyote Noose
Mojave Gila Crest
Mojave Cougar Ridge

Voor de mensen die vast gegroeid zijn aan een multimedia apparaat heb ik hier een paar hele handige links die ik zelf ook naast mijn database tijdens het racen gebruik.
Op deze website kun je alle informatie over alle "car settings" vinden over een bepaalde auto.
En voor de fanatiekelingen die racen met een stuur zoals ik zelf, heb ik hier een website waar alle Force Feedback settings in staan.


Ik hoop dat jullie er veel plezier aan beleven.

 

Ik heb hier nog wat informatie waar veel vraag naar blijkt te zijn. (helaas alleen nog in het Engels)

Vehicle Tuning Setup Help

Tires and Brakes

Tires

Lowering pressure will decrease temperature as raising will increase temperature. The hotter the tire the quicker it will wear. Lowering the tire pressure creates a greater contact patch which will increase the grip you will feel. However, the greater the contact patch the more tire wear will occur. Lowering the tire pressure too much reduces grip. Sometimes lowering the tire pressure too much will give you too much grip causing turning too strong and the rear doesn’t slide. In these instances raising the tire pressure will benefit the handling. If the tire pressure is too high then the tires will overheat and very little can be done to cool them or prevent excessive wear. Overall reducing the front tire pressure will help solve the problem

If you have mid-corner understeer (Understeer occurs when traction is lost at the front wheels while cornering, forcing you wide on a bend despite applying the correct steering angle. When viewed by an observer, this action looks as if the driver has applied insufficient steering lock (or under steered). If you're car is understeering, you're scrubbing off speed and missing the optimum line, so it's not a quick way to take a bend.) lowering the tire pressure will help.
If you have mid-corner or exit oversteer (Oversteer occurs when the rear tires reach the limit of adhesion in a corner before the front. This leads to 'the back coming out' The good thing about oversteer is that you normally go through the hedge backwards, thus preventing expensive repairs to the front of your car. If you manage to performed sustained, controlled oversteer this is know as drifting.) then reducing the rear tire pressure will help.

Brake Balance

Adjusting the brake balance is highly dependent on your braking style.
Trail braking - This involves braking later and continuing to brake into the early phase of the corner before the apex. This can help improve your lap times, but also pushes your car closer to the limits of grip.
Straight line braking before a corner and before beginning to turn-in.
Often you use both types on a track depending on the corner. If you’re trail braking and have turn-in understeer, then move the brake balance rearward. If you’re trail braking and the rear begins to slide on turn-in, then move the brake balance forward. If you’re breaking in a straight line and the rear axle locks move the brake balance forward. If your braking in a straight line and the front tires lock causing you to go straight into the gravel, then move the brake balance rearwards. You’ll often find that the brake balance is good on one corner and horrible on another. You can adjust the brake balance while on the track increments of 1 all the way from 100% in the front to 100% rear. Adjusting the brake balance on the fly allows for optimal braking in every corner. As the tires wear they will begin to wear at different rates. To help stop this you can have more brake balance on the least worn tires. Also as the tire wears the more likely it will lock. If you’re running a brake balance of 73% you may find that the fronts begin to lock. In order to stay out longer before a pit, you can adjust the balance rearwards on the track.

Traction Control

The Final basic adjustment in the tires and brakes is the traction control slip. Reducing this value will allow the traction control to intervene sooner allowing less wheel spin. Increasing this value will let the car have more wheel spin before the traction control activates. On corner exit you can apply the power only if the traction control kicks in reducing your exit speed. If this happens increase the traction control. Alternatively, in corner exit you may apply the power and the rears slide. If this happens, then decrease traction control to allow traction control to decrease the wheel spin.
Generally, the tighter the corner, the rears will spin. If you have many slow-speed bends a lower traction control slip is advised. This is done to preference some drivers like to drift and others can’t handle the car sliding out.


Aerodynamics and Chassis

Downforce

Downforce can be adjusted individually on front and rear of the vehicle. The higher the downforce the more grip you will have in a corner. However, downforce increases the aerodynamic drag of the vehicle. This increase of drag will reduce the top speed. The downforce should be at a minimum as tracks such as Monza or maximum at tracks such as Watkins Glen. Downforce will only benefit car handling at medium speed and high speed corners. At low speed you’re not traveling fast enough to generate enough downforce for it to be noticeable.
If on medium and high speed corners you’re having understeer than increase the front downforce. If on medium and high speed corners the rear begins to excessively slide then increase the rear downforce.
There are two methods to choosing your downforce in competitive racing. You can run at the lowest controllable downforce level so you are one of the fastest cars on the straights. This will prevent cars from catching you if you are leading, or will help you catch the cars in front of you. Most overtakes are completed on the straights as this is the safest way. The second method is for overtaking in the corners. For this you run at a slightly higher than normal downforce level to allow you to follow closely behind the car ahead. The high downforce will allow you to carry more speed into the corner. Eventually the driver ahead will be pressured into a mistake allowing you to make a nice simple overtake. Alternatively, you will get a better exit provide the straight following the corner isn’t too long. This will allow you to get ahead. When leading it is also helpful that you can exit the corner faster and any advantage the drivers have on the straights will be negated by your superior corner speed.

Longitude and Weight Bias

Longitude and Weight Bias is a useful tool to change the weight balance of the car. If the car is understeering on corner entry, then move the weight bias rearwards. If the car is over steering on corner exit and corner apex (Apex or clipping point is the innermost point of the line taken through a curve. The apex is often, but not always, the geometric center of the turn. Hitting the apex allows the vehicle to take the straightest line and maintain the highest speed through that specific corner. It is often near the tightest part of a corner.) then move the weight bias forwards. This behavior is due to the weight change on the car during cornering, braking, and acceleration. As you brake naturally the front of the car gets heavier. Having a rear weight bias will help stop this effect. When you are cornering the car rotates (unintelligible) front tires. The further-er away from the front tires the center of mass is the greater so more over steer will be felt. Alternatively, if the center of mass is at the front of the vehicle the rear will slide less which will compromise your exit speed. When you are accelerating the rear squats causing the weight to transfer to the rear axle. Having a forward weight bias will reduce this effect. A forward weight bias is required here as often you are accelerating while turning the wheel. So, any rearwards weight balance will dramatically increase the rear sliding. Extremes should be avoided here, as this will give unpredictable handling. I tend to run anywhere between 60% so, 10% front bias and 40% so, 10% rear bias depending on the car. Front engine FWD cars you want to run with a rear weight bias. Front engine rear wheel drive cars you normally want to run with a front weight bias. Rear engine rear wheel drive cars you want to run with a front wheel bias. Mid-engine rear wheel drive cars are tricky as these tend to be unstable and unpredictable. These will often stay around 50% mark. All-wheel drive cars have a tendency to understeer this is not always the case but normally the default handling. For these a rear weight bias will be required.

Alignment

Tow

The tow can be changed front and rear. Increasing the front tow (tow-in) will increase the amount of grip during corner apex but, reduces the grip on corner entry but will be able to hold the apex better once you get there. Decreasing the front tow (tow-out) will increase the corner entry grip but, will reduce the corner apex grip. So, the car will feel sharper on tow-in but will begin to wander out wide as you take the apex of the corner. Increasing the rear tow (tow-in) will reduce lift-off and power over steer. So, when you let off the throttle the rear will be more controllable. When you apply the throttle when exiting the corner the rear will slide less. Decreasing the rear tow (tow-out) will increase liftoff and power over steer, so when you let off the throttle the rear will begin to step out allowing you to slide into the corner. When you apply the throttle the rear will slide more allowing you to straighten the car sooner for a better exit. Tow depends on track and largely your driving style. Some like a car that is on rails and does not slide at all. They will have lots of rear tow-in. Some like a car that can slide about. They will have rear tow-out. Some like a (unintelligible) car. They will have front tow-out. And some like a car that can hold the apex. They will have front tow-in.

Camber

The camber angle can be changed individually at each corner of the car. Camber angle will always be negative. Camber angle changes the angle of the tire under static conditions. Negative camber has the top of the tire leaning into the car body. Having the top of the tire leaning in will put more load on the inside shoulder of the tire. As you turn the vehicle weight transfers to the outside. This weight transfer squishes the tire so the contact patch gets larger. The more negative the camber angle, the more centralized this contact patch will be. The greater the camber angle the faster the tires will begin to heat up when you’re on track. This combined with the greater contact patch size will increase the grip you feel during cornering. You can adjust left and right camber angle to help balance the tire temperatures. In a straight line however, the contact patch is not being squished into the ground as much, so a larger camber angle will actually reduce the contact patch size. Under braking this reduction of contact patch size will increase your braking distances. Under acceleration out of the corner the rear will slide more and more wheel spin will occur as weight will transfer back to the center of the vehicle and the contact patch size will reduce. If you have corner apex under steer increasing the front camber will increase the grip and reduce the under steer. This increase in front camber angle will however, will give more turn-in understeer as the contact patch will be smaller then. If you have corner apex over steer, increasing the rear camber will reduce this. This is as the contact patch will get greater thus increasing the rear grip. The increasing camber angle will make the rear of the vehicle more snappy and make you more prone to sudden loss of control. I would always adjust the camber angle first before adjusting the tow of the vehicle.

Suspension

Ride Height

Ride height can be adjusted individually at each corner of the car. Unless you are oval racing the left and right ride height should remain the same. Having different left and right ride heights will change how the car feels during left and right cornering (unintelligible) an unpredictable car. Generally, the lower the ride height the better, as there will be less weight transfer during cornering, braking, and acceleration. This is due to the spring travel being shortened. The shortened spring travel will mean the car body will move less when loads are applied. The tire load won’t differ as much and the car will be more predictable. Going too low however, will cause the car to bottom out. When a car bottoms out the car body is in contact with the road. This causes a sudden loss in control if it occurs during cornering. If the front bottoms out you’ll get under steer and the car will feel like you are driving on ice. If the rear bottoms out you will end up in the gravel or exit the corner facing in the wrong direction. Having the front ride height higher will cause the car to understeer. This is as the weight transfer will be felt more by the front axle than the rear axle. Raising the front ride height also stalls the front aerodynamics. If the front aerodynamics stall then less downforce is being created than what should be generated. Raising the rear ride height will make the car over steer more as the rear of the car will have a larger weight transfer than the front. Raising the rear ride height can also increase rear grip on medium and high speed corners as the rear wind will be exposed allowing for a cleaner air flow to generate downforce. This cleaner air flow generates more downforce than turbulence flow. Raising the rear ride height to far however, will stall the rear aerodynamics of the car and you will feel a sudden loss of rear grip. This is as the air gets into the diffuser becomes turbulent and the diffuser will stall. Ride Height will affect all areas of the corner. Set the front ride height as low as possible, so just before the car bottoms out. Then set the rear ride height to your preference. It will normally be higher than the front but, how high depends on how much you like the rear to slide.

Sway Bars

Sway Bars or anti-roll bars increase the spring stiffness during cornering as the weight begins to transfer the sway bar will twist thus increasing the spring rate of the axle. The increase in spring rate means more force is required to deflect the suspension. Sway bars only act during cornering and have no effect on straight line driving. Sway bars act along the axle so, can only be changed front and rear. The softer the sway bar the more predictable the car will be. This is as spring rate won’t change as much so you have a car that feels the same at every corner. Soft sway bars however, have the effect of creating more body roll than stiffer sway bars. The more body roll the more likely of the car bottoming out during cornering. A soft sway bar and a low ride height do not mix well. Stiffer sway bars make the car more (unintelligible) as you do not have to wait for the car body to settle or move from left to right before changing direction. Sway bars affect all areas of the corner. If the front sway bar is stiffer than the rear the car will understeer. This is as during cornering there will be less weight transfer so, the contact patch will be smaller than if there were a greater weight transfer. You’ll want to increase the front sway bar stiffness as far as possible however, as the reduction in car body roll makes the car more predictable. If the rear sway bar is stiffer the car will over steer, as the rear contact patch won’t grow as much during cornering so the rear will have less grip. You will want to reduce the rear sway bar if it feels as though the rear of the car is trying to overtake the front. Sway bars can be adjusted on the fly in Project Cars and you can increase or decrease. I would advise that you do this cause some corners the sway bars may be too stiff and you will get under steer. In other corners the body will excessively roll and this should be prevented for predictable handling.

Brake Pressure and Cooling

Brake Pressure

Brake pressure controls the force applied to stop the car when you press the brakes. Having a high brake pressure will make brake distances short but, will leave you more prone to locking up the wheel. This can be countered by modulating the brake which is when you slowly apply the brake up to its maximum pressure then start letting off the brakes as the car slows down. This is most easily done using a pedal box. If you struggle with locking brakes and brake balance adjustments don’t work, then reduce the brake pressure. It will increase your stopping distance as less force is applied to slow the vehicle but, will reduce the likelihood of a lockup. Set the brake pressure to be the highest possible as this will give you the shortest braking distances, but low enough to prevent rear lockups.

Cooling

Brake Ducts

Brake Ducts changes how fast the brakes cool. Cold brakes provide no stopping power. Overheated brakes also provide no stopping power so, you must control the temperatures of the brake by using the brake duct. Tracks like Monza you want to run with a closed brake duct that while the brakes will overheat the long straight afterwards will cool the brakes. Tracks like Monaco where you are constantly applying the brakes you want to run with an open brake duct to allow the brakes to cool between corners to prevent overheating. Too opened a brake duct however, will cool the brakes too much and you will lose all braking performance between the corners. The more closed the brake duct the less the aerodynamic drag of the vehicle so, the car will have a higher top speed. Run with the most closed brake duct possible without causing the brakes to overheat. Remember races are longer than qualifying so, if you begin to notice thermal buildup during practice you may want to open the brake duct to prevent this from becoming an issue in the race.

Dampers

Bump, Rebound, and Bump Stop. All three of these settings can be set individually for each corner of the car. Unless you are oval racing it is advised that you keep left and right the same. Front to back, on the other hand, is a different matter. Nine times out of ten they will be different.

Bump Stop

A Bump Stop is a small rubber ball or cone attached to the top mounting plate of your spring. The goal of the bump stop is to prevent the spring from colliding with itself when it is compressed. If the spring collides with itself you will get some very unpredictable handling with any shock cannot be absorbed. The bump stop increases the force required to fully compress the spring. The bump stop can be non-linear or they can be linear. In Project Cars the bump stops are linear, so this helps things. Instead of the cars behavior gradually changing as the spring is compressed the car will be normal and then suddenly very different, so when you notice the handling has suddenly become very different you know you’ve encountered bump stop. What is this different handling? Imagine the spring break has just doubled and the car is very suddenly stiff. If encountered on the front you’ll get under steer. If encountered on the rear you’ll get over steer. If you have a soft spring and to keep it soft then you want a high bump stop, this is to stop the spring from compressing too much and reaching the stage where it collides with itself. If you have a firm spring and you want to keep it that way then you want a low bump stop. The high spring rate should stop you from ever fully compressing the spring, but for those occasions where there is a sudden suspension mode the bump stop will be useful. Remember you should really never encounter bump stop. If you do it’s suggested you increase your ride height or increasing your spring stiffness. The bump stop is there as a safety device to stop you from losing control by preventing the spring from fully compressing. It really shouldn’t be used for anything but, preventing that from occurring.

Bump and Rebound

Bump is when the damper is compressed and Rebound is when the damper extends. You want different behavior for both of these. Fast and Slow – Slow is when you’re cornering the weight shifts gradually so, the springs and dampers actually get compressed and extended. Fast is when you go over bumps in the road then the suspension has to react quickly. You want different damper behavior in both of those circumstances. The damper ultimately resists the suspension displacement. So, in bump the damper will reduce the amount that the suspension is compressed. In Rebound the damper will reduce the amount the suspension extends. The stiffer the damper the more resistance you have. The more resistant it is the quicker the suspension will reach steady state and the less weight transfer there will be. Steady state is when the suspension compresses it’s not a linear compression it oscillates. These oscillations are bad for handling. If you have wheel turn it to full lock. If you have a controller pull the stick in one direction. This demonstrates oscillation. Now, when you let go the wheel will self-center and the controller stick will also self-center. Imagine that was a spring it wouldn’t self-center. It would go past the neutral position and go the other way and then start coming back and going backwards and forwards. That’s an oscillation. The damper aims to reduce this.

Slow Bump and Rebound

Cornering - The suspension will compress so bump on the outside for this is where the weight transfers to. The inside of the car will begin to rise so, the suspension on the inside will rebound. So, slow bump will resist the weight transfer again on the outside wheels making the car more predictable. Slow rebound will resist the weight transfer by stopping the suspension from extending so, in effect holding the weight back. This is why slow bump and rebound are much stiffer than fast is that they are preventing weight transfer. The stiffer they are the more it slows down the weight transfer through the corner. So, the more predictable the car will be as it will slow down any under steer to over steer transition. You don’t want it too stiff though otherwise it will be like driving a car with no suspension and the car will be very difficult to drive. The stiffer the front is the more understeer you will feel. The stiffer the rear is the more over steer you will feel.

Fast Bump and Rebound

This is when you’re going over curbs or a very bumpy track. Tracks like Monaco are more sensitive to fast damper settings than Silverstone. The fast settings are softer than the slow as here you want the suspension to react quickly to bumps in the road. If the suspension acts slowly the tires will be at risk of not being in contact with the road. Obviously, if the tires aren’t in contact you don’t have a lot of grip. Fast bump is how quickly the suspension can deflect after going over a bump. Too stiff and the tires are at risk of jumping over the bump. Too soft and the car is at risk of bottoming out or, the spring compressing too much.

Fast Rebound

Fast rebound is how quickly the suspension extends to come in contact with the road surface. Too soft and the car can bounce. Too stiff and the suspension doesn’t extend fast enough and the car could bottom-out. With slow and fast settings it is up to you to find the right balance. There is no golden ratio. Generally, the front is softer than the rear. Generally, the rebound is stiffer than the bump. There is not normally a huge difference between these values but the rebound to bump difference is normally larger than the front to rear difference. Dampers are a good way to fine-tune the handling without major changes to other parameters.

Radiator

Radiator in Project Cars refers to the radiator opening in the bodywork. The smaller the radiator opening (the more closed on the slider), the better. This is as openings in the bodywork will dramatically increase drag as recirculation zones appear and the air is dramatically slowed. The increase in drag will reduce top speed of the car. The bigger the opening the more downforce you are also losing as the bodywork is less smooth. So, less downforce is being generated by the wings and other devices on the car. A smaller radiator however, will lead to increased engine temperatures. This will increase the wear on the engine and will end the engine life being shorter. A smaller radiator will also cause sudden engine failure to be more likely. Always run with the smallest radiator you can get away with without compromising the reliability of your car. Throughout the race monitor your engine temperatures as shorter runs may hide heat build-ups that will become more apparent in the race.

Differential

Slip Preload

Always start with a slip preload. This is because this will affect your acceleration and deceleration differential behavior. A lower number will allow for better turning and the car will over steer more. This is how the differential is more opened. A higher number will make the differential closer to locking and the car will be more planted but, there will be more under steer.

Deceleration Lock

Deceleration lock is felt when you are off-throttle. If you are off-throttle and the rear doesn’t slide when cornering then reduce the deceleration lock as this will give better rotation and more over steer. If the rear slides too much when off-throttle then increasing the deceleration lock will give you more control and the rear will slide less. The best way to test this is too find a medium speed corner. Approach the corner with too much speed but, slow enough that you can take the corner. So, to take the corner all you have to do is lift off the throttle. When you lift off and turn in see what happens to the rear.

Acceleration Lock

Acceleration lock will be the most common thing to tune. A lower acceleration lock number will give a more opened differential when on throttle. This will give you better turning ability as the rear will slide more. However, if you are on full lock full throttle at low speed the inside wheel is likely to spin. This spin will cause the inside wheels to excessively wear as it is like doing a burn-out. A higher acceleration lock will make the differential closer to locking. This will mean the car is more planted but, it will understeer more when you apply the throttle.
When tuning a differential it is important that the car is balanced when off-throttle and when on-throttle. If the car under steers when off-throttle but over steers when on-throttle the car will wear you down and you’re likely to make a mistake. The best differential settings makes the car have the same handling whether on-throttle or off-throttle as the car will be predictable regardless of you throttle application. The worse you need is to be forced to lift off the throttle if there is an obstacle ahead for the car to suddenly understeer causing you to hit the obstacle more than you would have if you would have kept the throttle applied.

Gearing and Engine

Gearing

For Basic Gearing only adjust the final drive of the gear box. The shorter or, smaller the number is the quick you will change gears. This is as the car is under geared to allow you to have greater acceleration. Acceleration comes at a price though as your top speed will be limited compared to that of a car with a longer final drive. Acceleration is key at tracks such as Monaco but, at Monza while yes you can pull out the chicanes faster the straights are so long that you will easily be caught. Adjust the final drive so you achieve top speed when the car is in top gear and just about to red-line. If you feel you have the need to draft the car ahead in a race then allow some leeway before the red-line however, this will make you slower at qualifying.

Fuel Load

Fuel load is the fuel in which you start. Always run with the least amount of fuel you can as fuel is weight. Qualifying fuel load should be just enough for you to do and out-lap or 1 or 2 fast laps depending on whether you are a confident qualifier and an (unintelligible). The race fuel should be just enough to finish the race unless, you are endurance racing in which case how much fuel you’ll have before the first pit stop. When in practice find out how much fuel you use per lap then, multiply that fuel used by the number of laps you intend to run in qualifying to find the qualifying fuel load. Multiply the fuel used per lap by the number of laps in the race then add a safety margin so, you don’t run out. It is very unlikely you will use the exact amount of fuel for each lap in the race so, this is why you want a safety margin. One or Two Laps is usually enough. When you are drafting the car ahead you will use less fuel this is as there will be less drag as the car ahead is punching a big hole in the air for you and there is less resistance. Remember, fuel is used most when on throttle. If you are a person who frequently uses the throttle you will use more fuel then those who don’t throttle over-lap when on the brakes or, those who don’t lift the throttle to keep the turbo’s cold. Fuel averages can be measured on the car if the car has a multi-digital dashboard.

Brake Mapping

The Greater the brake mapping number the more throttle is applied by the ECU (engine control unit) when you are braking. The more throttle applied by the ECU the more fuel you will use. The ECU applies throttle to prevent the rear axle from locking. You can reduce the brake mapping setting if you feel comfortable doing this by yourself. The higher the brake mapping number the more the car will push into the corners so, the more the car will understeer. If the rear axle locks under braking then increase the brake mapping number.

Wastegate Pressure

Wastegate Pressure is the air pressure at which the wastegate will be opened relieving the pressure on the turbo. If the turbo pressure is too high it is likely to fail. The turbo pressurizes and feeds air before entering the engine. This means that fuel will ignite quicker as the maximum temperature during combustion will be higher. The fuel however, can detonate. Where rather than flame from propagating through the air/fuel mixture it instantaneously ignites. This will cause damage to the cylinder walls and the piston head and so, will increase wear on the engine. Have the wastegate pressure as high as possible as you will get more power but, make sure it is low enough to allow you to finish the race before the engine fails. The shorter the session the higher the wastegate setting you can use.

Restrictor

Restrictors will only be used if the series has a balance of performance rule or you are entering a car that has a superior top speed. The smaller the restrictor the less air will get to the engine. The less air the less power produced as the ECU puts in the right amount of fuel by measuring the air you will also use less fuel. The larger the restrictor the more air will enter the engine so, you will get more power.


Project CARS Force Feedback Setup Guide


20150416


Introduction


The Force Feedback system was developed with two goals in mind:

1. Be as simple as much as possible such that all parameters may be exposed in the GUI
   
2. Handle well the nuances in the variety of wheels supported
   

We think that some force feedback parameters are best served by being in the car setups. Two basic goals of setup are balance and feel. FFB is very important to feel, and how a car is setup may benefit from setup specific FFB adjustments. This is fundamentally a concession that simulation racing is a sport similar to, but distinct from, real life racing. In real life racing we deal with things not relevant to sim racing such as seat belt tension, visor choice, suit ventilation, and wrenching changes in the hot sun. In sim racing we have FFB latency, dynamic range, and non linearity as some of those things we have to deal with that real life racing does not.


So we put the parts of FFB adjustment that couple with traditional setup in with traditional setup. In other words we are saying part of FFB can be part of setting up a sim car. This way some FFB parameters will couple, and therefore save and transfer, with the setup they are matched to. Therefore there is a Force Feedback tab in the setup GUI.


An example of why this makes sense is the fact that adjusting caster will change FFB magnitude. Caster is inarguably a valid setup parameter. But it is also inarguable that the FFB changes with caster. So it directly follows that a FFB that feels good with a particular caster will need FFB adjustment if the caster is adjusted (to feel as good). Other obvious examples include changing tire choice or steering ratio, but almost anything in setup can have similar considerations.


Another case to be made is track considerations. For example, a setup for Montreal might stress Fx more, leveraging limited device dynamic range for heightened braking feel. On the other hand, a setup for Indy might have no Fx at all, to focus in more on onedge Fy and Mz, or maybe even lean mostly on Seat of Pants and Gut.


Other parameters are more specific to the controller itself, and these are in the Controller


section.


There are many ways to deal with setting up force feedback. Again, setting up FFB is very analogous to setting up any other aspect of the car, such as suspension. The easiest is to just do nothing, and use the defaults. This is fine. The defaults in general are both immersive and informative, good in both, specializing in neither. Just as the default suspension settings are balanced, neither overly safe nor aggressive.


Another approach is to thoroughly understand how the force feedback system works, and “engineer” settings that are perfect for you. This is similar to a setup engineer setting up suspension using all available information and knowledge. For this approach, this guide provides a Reference section.


Yet another approach is to try FFB setups from other drivers. This is the same as any other setup sharing, including suspensions.


And finally, one could understand a handful of basics and tune the FFB pretty well to suit one’s style without getting too deep. This is the same as using one of the suspension cause and effect tables or references. For this approach, this guide provides a bloglike section of a session setting up FFB.


Log of setting up a Fanatec GT3RS on Formula B, starting from a new profile.


The choice of wheel is because this wheel has been the trickiest wheel for me to get the FFB to feel right in the past on other sims. It is a fine wheel (with a wonderful suede grip), but just needs a little help to shine.


First, I select the car, the Formula B. I will eventually be using my favorite tires for this car, the Yiro Slicks, but to start off with, I’ll use the default Faretti tires, because the cars have been roughed out on default setups to have FFB in the same sort of magnitude range.


On track I will use the telemetry HUD so I get the FFB graph in the upper left. To keep this simple that is the only data, besides feel, that I will use.


The first track I’ll use is one of the laser scanned tracks whose bumpiness I like. Brands Hatch GP.


To continue with the suspension analogy, and the purpose of this section, here is a table here of FFB issues and fixes (I’ll likely flesh this out with more symptoms using WMD feedback).


Symptom


Likely Condition


Fix

Wheel feels damped, thick, or unresponsive.


Mechanical damping of the wheel is high.


Counter damping with antidamping. See Step 2 below, or use DRI mode on a Fanatec

Wheel feels fine at lower forces, but numb at high forces


Wheel is clipping.


Turn down Tire Force, or see step 3 below.

Wheel vibrates or shudders too much at all force levels.


Not enough damping of input forces.


Increase smoothing of input signals (in car FFB setup)

Wheel has a “notch” around zero force (going straight)


Too much tightening around zero.


Reduce Tighten Center

Wheel is too weak or faint around zero force (going straight).


Wheel has a deadzone.


Increase Tighten Center

Step 1 Just try out the default FFB.


For me the wheel was dull, draggy, and not very informative compared to what I like. It feels thick and soft. My target is going to be to make the FFB vibrant and informative, and possibly live with some latency induced oscillation vulnerability.


Step 2 Remove drag


Lots of wheels have mechanical drag. Some a lot more than others. The Fanatec wheels in particular have a lot of drag, which is probably why they have their DRI modes (I recommend not using DRI modes, instead using the technique of this section).


Here is the technique I use:

1. Goto Force Feedback in the car setup. Set Master Scale to 0. We want no force at all from the physics for this step.
   
2. GotoControllerFFBCalibrationandsetPerWheelMovementtoanegativevalue,and Per Wheel Movement squared to a smaller positive value. The negative value provides antidrag to counter the wheel drag. The positive squared value provides a sort of safety net to keep fast wheel movements from feeling weird, or worse, accelerating the wheel.
   

C. Test the wheel on track by jarring it at different speeds. Keep adjusting the values until the wheel is very free moving but never accelerates, and slowly comes to a stop, at all jarring speeds. For this wheel I came up with Per Wheel Movement at 0.19 and Per Wheel Movement Squared at 0.10.


D. When you have values that you like, go back to the car setup and reset it so that the Master Scale is back to default.


Note that the wheel I am doing this with, the Fanatec GT3RS is relatively high in drag. Which is fine. But that means these values are higher than you might come to with say a Logitech G25/G27, which is rather low drag. Also, I am not using the DRI mode of the Fanatec wheel, which does the same thing we are doing here, but has only five levels. We can fine tune much better using this ingame method.


Step 3 Configure with respect to saturation/clipping


This could also be called “configuring to taste within the constraints of the wheel you have”


First, some people (in fact most casual drivers who try my rig when I have a lower force wheel on it) prefer a little clipping if that means the force around center is tighter and the behavior is linear. I think that might be the closest to what many people expect a car to feel like so far as a lower end wheel can provide.


So this section is very taste specific on lesser wheels. On high end wheels, you can usually just go with a simple linear setup that does not clip. Although even in the high end wheel case, there is some taste involved, similar to in a real life car, such as how much caster to dial in for feel purposes.


But on this consumer wheel I am using, my goal is to get as much information through the wheel about what the car is doing in a way that is intuitive enough to me where it at least feels natural.


So now I briefly comment on my driving style with respect to FFB. I need good information from FFB when setting the car on early turn in, and even more information during mid to late exit modulating the throttle. Mid corner I get extra information from tire sound and visual. So I want to stress information at lesser FFB levels. I still want FFB not fully saturated at load, but precision at lower levels is worth some tradeoff for me in this exercise.


So I work from center out. I get center and low load where I want it first, then apply anticlipping in such a way that I don’t mess that up. At least to start off with. But much like setting up a car, changing one thing may alter many other things and therefore require iterating on settings to get things just right.


First I see what a straight linear FFB setup feels like. So in controller FFB disable everything from deadzone removal range down. In my case, tire force 100 is already in the ballpark, which should usually be the case. I almost never touch Tire Force. This straight linear setup clips some, but we want that to have enough signal to work with.


Deadzone Removal


My GT3RS has a little bit of a deadzone. Not bad, but enough to notice and make it feel slightly like there is play in the steering. So I adjust the Deadzone Removal Range to 0.01 and the Deadzone Removal Falloff maybe half that, so 0.005 (at the time of this writing the GUI does not show the number to that precision, but you can set it...5 clicks to the right from zero).


With deadzone removal the thing to watch out for when you have too much is a “notch” or stickiness around zero force.


Signal Compression


On track at this point the steering feels nice and snug around center, and had good information very early turn in and very late exit, but saturates far too early.


So we need to compress the signal such the the information I want steel feels right, but the wheel does not go numb with saturation too early. We have three primary options (with tools we’ll get to later to fine tune): the the Soft Clipping mechanism, Relative Adjust mechanism, and using FFB car setup to customize the forces. We’ll try Soft Clipping first, just because I happen to already know I’ll end up with Relative Adjust as my favored generic solution for this wheel and I want to cover Soft Clipping here as well. I will then also adjust a specific car using the car setup approach, which given time for a specific car and track, is my favorite.


Soft Clipping


Since we are working from center out we will set Soft Clipping (Half Input) to 1.0, and per the Reference description, “Setting this to 1.0 will match the derivative/slope of the output at zero input (so if you want the lowest forces to feel similar, and compress everything else). “


Now the FFB is starting to feel pretty good, although at this point we can notice two things we’d like to fix. First, we are not using all of the FFB, even in the highly loaded fast sweeper. This is evident in the FFB Telemetry HUD graph not reaching its limits. This is because Soft Clipping approaches full FFB but never reaches it. This is also what Soft Clipping (Full


Output) is meant to correct for. Second, the higher forces are a bit vague, even though they are not saturated. There are a couple reasons for this. One is that the higher forces are now compressed, which makes variances feel less. The other is that some wheels, like the one I am using for this, are inherently less responsive at higher forces. This is what Scoop can be used to correct for, increasing how much dynamic range higher forces get.


The first fix we’ll do is Soft Clipping (Full Output), since that will give us more dynamic range and reduce the amount of Scoop we’ll need. This is a bit trial and error, because this operates on the input signal to the Soft Clipper. At 1.0 we know by definition we’ll be back to clipping the same amount as without the soft clipper, so we know to go higher than 1.0. After some iterations I come to 2.1.


Now it is starting to feel good enough where I would be happy with using this wheel. But we can still do a bit better.


Scoop


Over time I’ve found 0.7 to be a good Scoop Knee and 0.15 a good Scoop Reduction. This provides a nice boost of high force feel in consumer wheels. Since we are doing that here, I’ll try that. (As of this writing, they also happen to be the defaults on consumer wheels).


OK, so that is really good for this wheel. But now lets try another approach: Relative Adjust


Relative Adjust


This settings are admittedly a little bit black magic in feel, even if you know exactly what they are doing, but when they are set well, they can increase the perceived dynamic range dramatically, with low enough side effects to be acceptable for most people (including me).


I prefer Relative Adjust Gain, which is sort of the overall power of the the processing of the FFB signal, to be dialed back a little bit from default, so about 0.70. However, I prefer the Relative Adjust Bleed to be a little higher than default at about 0.20. A higher bleed, which is more time for the dynamic relative force to fade off, allows for more useful “information” to come through in the high forces. Too high of a bleed however results is “stickiness” of force, which can start to feel very wrong. Relative Adjust Clamp is sort of the nominal max constant force, around which Relative Adjust works. At the default, which is nearly 1.0, relative adjust mainly working only in the force reducing direction (half of the signal). You can feel it that way, but I prefer to have a little more headroom to feel relative adjust fully, so I set this to 0.85.


Since this is the same wheel as I used for the Soft Clipper approach, I find the same issue


with the higher forces needing a little Scoop. I use the exact same settings, 0.7 for Scoop Knee and 0.15 for Scoop Reduction.


Car Force Feedback Setup


The idea here to use a straight linear controller FFB setup and adjust the car setup FFB to provide better information within the available bandwidth.


Reiterating my goal, I want to preserve the low force feel while improving information available at high forces. All else being equal, more immersion is better than less.


The key fact we will leverage is that Mz increases sharply at low slip angles, but then decreases back down to low force by peak slip angle. Very initial turn in is by definition (at least with “slow hand” driving) low slip angle (proceeding to higher slip angle). Late exit is also often low slip angle on the fronts, at least for my style, as the rear grip budget dominates driving.


Fy on the other hand peaks at peak slip angle. So starting with a linear setup, one easy thing to try is to simply reduce Fy. Reducing Fy to 40.0 has exactly the desired effect. However, in an FB I am already wanting more information on the rear than front before apex. Fy is front tire side load information. Maybe replacing that with rear tire sideload information would be even better.


For my taste this turns out to be the case. I set Fy to zero, and replaced it with SOP. I tried SOP Lateral first, since that is directly what I asked for and it worked well. However, SOP Differential had basically the same information, but with more high frequency immersive forces. So I used SOP Differential at 100 with 10 damping.


Mixed Approach


The above methods are not mutually exclusive. You can try mixing them together. For example, even though I use the Car Force Feedback Setup often, I also have Relative Adjust in my controller setup for a wheel like the one I am using for this.


Tire Change To Yiro


Changing the tires from Faretti to Yiro resulted in no need of FFB change for any of the methods. The grip levels of the the tires and their Mz were close enough to not need any adjustment.


Another track Circuit de BarcelonaCatalunya GP


So I tried another track, and feels really good, no issues.


Other cars


So then I tried the two controller FFB methods (Soft Clipping and Relative Adjust) on some other cars.


Formula A


Default


Feel good overall, but probably too much clipping in sweepers.

Since the FA is the only one a little off from ideal, and the FA is inherently the car with the largest force dynamic range, we will go to FA specific FFB to fine tune. Reducing Master Scale to 22 does the trick.

Formula C


Default


Feels very good.

Lotus 72D


72 Slick Tires


The 72 tires are a little lower grip than the default tires, so the Fy component of FFB will be less. This shows in that we do not use the full FFB dynamic range. So in the setup we raise Master Scale to 40, which fixes this nicely.

Lotus 49


Vintage Formula 1967 Tires


Feels very good.

Ford Mustang Boss 302R1


Default


Feels very good.


ReferenceGUI vs. Tweakers


This guide was originally written when the only way to adjust FFB was FFBTweaker files. So the names of parameters are listed with their FFBTweaker names first, and then the GUI “path” in blue.


In order to have a tweaker file work, you now have to use TopologyVersion 4. This is the


same topology as version 3 (which is what the GUI uses), but forces the tweaker to be used instead of GUI settings.


Design


Key

• ● green input signal
  
• ● yellow components parameterized as part of car setup
  
• ● blue components parameterized as part of controller setup
  
  Input Signals
  
  The four front tire input signals are the component parts of the whole tire induced torque coming through the rack. So if these are all scaled to the same thing (by convention 1.0), this is the same as straight rack torque.
  
  The two rear tire signals are to enable the Seats of Pants concept. Neither of these go through rack geometry though, as there is no rear rack and steering wheel. These just go straight to the seat.
  
  Finally, the G force signal is to enable the Gut physical simulation concept.
  

Tire Force (Tire Force) FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


This is simply an overall multiplier on all of the input tire forces. Note that G forces, the input to Gut, are not scaled with this parameter. Use this parameter to scale for a controller overall. Use SpindleMasterScale to scale per car or setup.


Spindle


EDIT TUNING SETUP / FORCE FEEDBACK / SPINDLE SpindleMasterScale (Master Scale)


This is a multiplier on all of the front tire forces. This was added to allow the following four scale to default to 1, and be more intuitively like “weights”.


SpindleFxScale (Fx Scale) SpindleFyScale (Fy Scale) SpindleFzScale (Fz Scale) SpindleMzScale (Mz Scale)


Individual scales on the components going through the spindle/rack. To get pure rack forces, leave these all at the same value. 1.0 is a convenient value for this, and use SpindleMasterScale to dial overall spindle force.


SpindleFxLoPass (Fx Smoothing) SpindleFyLoPass (Fy Smoothing) SpindleFzLoPass (Fz Smoothing) SpindleMzLoPass (Mz Smoothing)


Individual smoothing on the components going through the spindle/rack. Typically Fx requires more smoothing than the others. 0.0 is no smoothing. 1.0 is normalized to “really smooth but still some useful signal”. Values above 1.0 are valid.


SpindleArm (Arm Angle)


SpindleArm is the angle, in degrees, of the attachment of the tie rod to the spindle. Zero degrees means the tie rod is attached directly aft of the axis. That particular distance, how far aft, is not critical, because that just amounts to scale, which we adjust based on squeezing into the device range anyway. The angle though matters a lot in how the forces feel when the


steering wheel is not straight.


90 degrees is then with the tie rod directly inboard of the axis, which physically would result in the inability to steer. Realistic values I'd guess are between 0 and 45.


Note that the per force Soft Clippers from Topology 2 have been removed. This is one of the adjustments to make FFB control completely from the GUI reasonable.


Seat of Pants


EDIT TUNING SETUP / FORCE FEEDBACK / BODY & SOP


The basic idea of “Seat of Pants” is to present information from what is happening at the rear of the car through force feedback. There are two physical forces that are used. The rear side loads and the rear vertical loads.


SoPScale (SoP Scale) Overall scaling of Seat of Pants


SoPLateral (SoP Lateral Scale) Scaling of the rear side load effect.


SoPDifferential (SoP Differential Scale)Scaling of the rear vertical load effect, which is actually the difference between right and left vertical loads.


SoPLoPass (SoP Damping)Smoothing of the Seat of Pants signal. 0.0 is no smoothing. 1.0 is normalized to “really smooth but still some useful signal”. Values above 1.0 are valid.


Relative Torque Adjust


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


This is an all new concept for Topology 3. The idea here is to present torque to the wheel based on the change in torque through time instead of as absolute torque. This means that with reasonable parameters, the wheel will never fully saturate. But unlike soft clipping (which can also prevent saturation), the high end torques do not get as heavily squeezed.


There is one side effect to tune out though, and that is the wheel losing center over time. If all torque was completely via “Relative Torque Adjust”, centered torque would move around as


the wheel goes through previously saturating torques. To prevent this, we use the bleed value to “bleed” absolute torque back into the mix.


RelativeGain (Relative Adjust Gain)This is the scaling on the amount of calculated torque change that is applied. 1.0 is the intuitively correct value. 0.0 turns this component off.


RelativeBleed (Relative Adjust Bleed)This is a time value for bleeding absolute torque back in. 1.0s is a good starting point.


RelativeClamp (Relative Adjust Clamp)This is the force to wheel value (so in the 0.0 to 1.0 range) where the non absolute running magnitude is clamped. This does not clamp the overall value, and torques can still go above this, but it does exert a strong clamping effect. 1.0 is a good starting point for this. Values greater than 1.0 can make sense if soft clipping is also used. Values less than 1.0 makes sense to give some headroom for spikes to be a little more symmetrical around the clamp.


Note that with this component on, and with clamp at 1.0 or less, and not too much bleed, there is no full saturation. What this means is that what was too much force before now becomes more force effects felt near full force. But this too can become too much, as that can start to overpower the more subtle unsaturated force range. So you still need to dial overall force (via Tire Force and the scales), but that scaling can become an interesting control, not just something to avoid saturation with.


Gut Simulation


EDIT TUNING SETUP / FORCE FEEDBACK / BODY & SOP


This is a simulation of the G forces on the body of the driver. Basically, G forces move the body around via a physical simulation, and the result of that simulation is translated to force feedback.


GutScale (Body Scale)Magnitude of the gut simulation in FFB. 1.0 is normalized to “significant but not overpowering”.


GutLongScale (Body Longitudinal Scale)Magnitude of longitudinal effect applied. This is a scaling of the baseline lateral effect. At 0.0, the gut effect will be all based on lateral G’s. With non zero GutLongScale, under braking G’s, the lateral effect will increase, and under acceleration G’s the lateral effect will decrease.


GutMass


This is the mass of the simulated “gut”, which should not be the whole human body. It should


be some lesser portion, roughly being the effective amount of mass not “locked down” rigid by the seat and seatbelts. This is a very fuzzy concept, so the number is really just a very rough ballpark number. This is fine, because the simulation is not overly sensitive to this number. It matters, but it is not extremely critical.


The default is 50 kg.


GutStiffness (Body Stiffness)Stiffness of the gut with respect to the car. So in a kart this may be lower. In an F1 car this is probably pretty high.


GutDamping (Body Damping)This is a multiplier on critical damping of whatever mass and stiffness is set. Therefore, 1.0 means exactly critically damped.


Arm/Linkage Simulation


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


The arm/linkage simulation simulates that the wheel is driven by a non rigid linkage, namely the driver’s arms, as well as play and mass in the linkages themselves.. However, this is done purely with force feedback. The position of the the controller still directly dictates the location of the simulation wheel.


This simulation also serves as the main global smoothing stage.


ArmScale (Linkage Scale)Ratio of incoming signal to pass through the arm/linkage simulation. 0.0 if off. 1.0 is application of all incoming signal.


ArmMass


Mass of “arms”, with respect to simulation. This does not necessarily mean the average mass of two human arms. This is the effective mass with respect to the degree of freedom that is the wheel/controller.


ArmStiffness (Linkage Stiffness)Springlike stiffness of the “arms”. Stiffer settings will pass through higher frequency information. Softer settings will smooth more.


ArmDamping (Linkage Damping)This is a multiplier on critical damping of whatever mass and stiffness is set. Therefore, 1.0 means exactly critically damped.


Soft Clipping


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


This compresses all force within range of the wheel, although the stronger the force, the more it is squeezed into the higher force range. In some ways this is like Log Scaling in previous topologies, but Soft Clipping guarantees all signal will squeeze into the range, however compressed. On the other hand, approaching linear behavior is not implicit with soft clipping, as it can be with log scaling.


SoftClip (Soft Clipping (Half Input))The “half signal” for setting the soft clipper. The value set here is the input signal that will become 0.5 as an output signal. Setting this to 0.0 turns the soft clipping off. Setting this to 0.5 is maybe the closest approximation to linear while on, but is not linear. Setting this to 1.0 will match the derivative/slope of the output at zero input (so if you want the lowest forces to feel similar, and compress everything else). Therefore, less than 1.0 will amplify some lower force, and reduce larger forces. Greater than 1.0 will reduce all forces.


SoftClipUnity (Soft Clipping (Full Output))Straight soft clipping will never reach full 1.0 magnitude, which means for lots of soft clipping scenarios, the full force of the wheel is never quite used, possibly to a noticeable level.


SoftClipUnity sets the expected maximum force that will hit the soft clipper, and rescales such that that force outputs at 1.0 (full force of wheel). This means saturation may be reintroduced if this is set too low, but it is useful to fine tune output, especially when the soft clipper is used more for nonlinear response than for antisaturation. Setting this to 0.0 turns the unity rescaling off.


Scoop


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


This is a new component for Topology 3, and is directly in response to some devices going flat in response at higher force levels. This is somewhat the opposite nonlinear tool as the soft clipper, but is shaped differently, to better fit the nature of devices (and be easier to control).


So what scoop does is reduce lower forces more and high forces less, thereby increasing the slope of force where some devices reduce the slope of force. Since devices seem to do this in two more or less linear regimes, with a knee in between, this is how this component works (in the opposite direction so as to counter the wheel).


ScoopKnee (Scoop Knee)The input force level where the knee is at. If this is 0.0, this component is turned off.


ScoopReduction (Scoop Reduction)The input force reduction below the knee. Above the knee, the force slope is increased such that at 1.0 input force, the output force is 1.0.


Tighten Center


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


Note that the tweaker name of this can be confusing. This has nothing to do with tightening the wheel about geometric top center. The “center” for this component means “zero force”, and has nothing to do with wheel position.


The primary purpose of this is to remove wheel deadzones, but it can also be a shaping tool.


TightenCenterRange (Deadzone Removal Range)This is the input force below which the output force is increased to remove a deadzone. Put more simply, this is the size of the deadzone you are trying to remove.


TightenCenterFalloff (Deadzone Removal Falloff)This controls how softly (higher values are softer) the output force approaches zero force as the input force goes below TightenCenterRange.


Damping


FORCE FEEDBACK CALIBRATION


One use of damping can be to counter inherent drag in a device by using negative BaseDrag. However, often devices do not have linear inherent drag, so setting BaseDrag such that there is little to no device resistance at slow wheel speed will result in accelerating forces at higher wheel speeds. This can be fixed by also having some positive BaseDragSqr.


A technique to set damping to cancel most device drag is to turn off ALL forces (F1 menu, Slow Speed Force, and TireForce) and adjust BaseDrag and BaseDragSqr such that the wheel stays the same speed or slows down ever so slightly (until it hits a stop) when you give it a good push at different rates. It seems better to have a tiny bit of drag left than to have the wheel accelerate on its own at any speed.


BaseDrag (Per Wheel Movement)


This is resistance on the wheel as a function of wheel angular velocity.


BaseDragSqr (Per Wheel Movement Squared)This is resistance on the wheel as a function of wheel angular velocity squared.


BaseDragLoPass (Wheel Position Smoothing)This is smoothing of the angular velocity for drag calculations. Raw position data on some devices can be noisy. Note that increasing smoothing can have a secondary apparent effect of increasing the effect of drag.

 

welkom mooi stukje tekst,... begin langzaam maar zeker wat te pielen bij tuning,....
zal het nog eens rustig overlezen!!

psn: allstyles